This question all comes down to tree size. The trees on this short list are deemed the worst because of their widespread, invasive roots. These are just the top offenders, though! Once you find a tree you like, do a little research to see how fast growing and destructive their roots could be.
These trees make the list because of their non-invasive roots or low-maintenance cleanup. About Cookies on this site Davey uses cookies to make your experience a great one by providing us analytics so we can offer you the most relevant content.
Topics planting trees trees near house tree planting tips. Good drainage is critical for most ornamental plants. If you are planting around new construction, remove any debris left on the site that may cause plant growth problems. Chunks of concrete, roofing shingles, globs of tar, oil spills and sheetrock are a few of the hazards of new construction sites.
These can result in long-term growth problems. Soil compaction is also a problem near new construction. Tilling deeply and incorporating organic matter is often sufficient to loosen hard compacted soils.
In addition to examining the physical properties of the soil and taking corrective measures on poorly drained soils, a soil test will determine which nutrients need to be applied and whether you need to adjust the pH. A soil sample is best taken several weeks before planting so you will know how to treat the soil at planting time. However, if new soil is brought onto the site at planting time or if soil is moved around during the final grading, it is best to wait until all the soil is in place before sampling.
You can adjust pH or surface-apply fertilizer at the recommended rate later, after plants are established. Soil testing is available at a nominal fee through county Extension offices. The majority of ornamental plants prefer a soil pH from 5. Above or below this pH range, nutrient deficiencies often result. To raise the pH level of an acid soil, dolomitic lime is usually added, while the pH level of alkaline soils can be lowered with amendments like sulfur or aluminum sulfate.
Adjusting soil pH without the benefit of a soil test can result in nutrition problems that are difficult to counteract and correct. Follow soil. Organic amendments such as composted products are applied to soils to improve the nutrient and water-holding capacity of soils, or, in general terms, to improve soil tilth.
Research has shown that when adding organic matter to a soil, it is best to incorporate it throughout the rooting zone as opposed to placing it in the planting hole. By incorporating an amendment uniformly in the soil, the entire rooting area becomes a uniform growing environment for roots. On the other hand, when a planting hole alone is amended, the structure of the soil in the hole can differ significantly from that of the surrounding native soil, if an excessive amount or the wrong type is added.
This can encourage the roots to stay within the confines of the hole and discourages them from entering the surrounding native soil, especially if a perfectly round planting hole is dug. Some types of organic materials and quantities of them can also upset the water equilibrium between the surrounding native soil and the soil in the hole.
Fine-textured organic matter such as peat moss, placed in the planting hole can act like a sponge in a bathtub, holding too much moisture after rain or irrigation. Coarser-textured material, such as composted pine bark, is less likely to hold excess moisture. In heavy clay soils, use a shovel or mattock to notch out the sides of the round planting hole. This will enable growing roots to more easily enter the surrounding soil. Organic matter should comprise approximately 10 to 20 percent of the total soil volume.
For example, preparing a bed 8 inches deep requires the addition of about 1 to 2 inches of organic matter such as compost, leaf mold, or composted pine bark. Drainage can be improved in clay soils by subsoiling or deep tilling prior to adding organic matter. Composted materials immediately provide organic matter to the soil.
Do not use uncomposted bark products as amendments. Freshly milled bark that has not been composted will slowly rob plants of nitrogen when used as an amendment. As microorganisms in the soil feed on bark and decompose it, they will use nitrogen in the soil.
Also, the pH of the soil often drops dramatically below the desirable range when uncomposted materials are used as amendments. Well-composted organic products have a rich, earthy smell, a crumbly appearance, and the original organic materials are no longer recognizable. For the best choices of composted material, choose either well decomposed material from your home compost pile, or purchase composted pine bark.
The composted pine bark may still contain some small bark chips, but this can aid in improving the internal drainage in fine-textured clay soils.
Additionally, composted pine bark may help suppress certain soil borne disease causing organisms. In well-drained soil, the planting hole should never be dug any deeper than the height of the root ball. If power lines are overhead, you'll need to make sure your full-grown tree won't touch them.
And might the mature tree send limbs over your home? A tree growing over a home rarely causes a problem, but potential issues can be avoided by choosing a tree with a narrow growth habit, instead of a spreading crown.
Finally, consider where the tree will cast its shadow. Shade is generally welcome except near planting spots, such as a vegetable garden , where you want full sun. Trees are grouped into two general categories based on size. Ornamental trees are generally small trees , maturing at less than 30 feet tall and 10 to 20 feet wide. Shade trees are considered large trees and usually grow 30 to 60 feet or more tall and wide.
Thanks to plant breeding, there are many exceptions to the above groups. Reading through tree descriptions is a little like reading through resumes.
The first task in finding the best candidate is determining what you would like them to do. The same goes for a tree in your yard. How would you like a new tree to contribute to your landscape? Are you looking for shade for a patio or outdoor play space? Different trees have different growing requirements, so it's important to take an inventory of the conditions your chosen specimen will be subject to.
Some of these can be changed easily while others are more intrinsic. Some trees need just a bit of water to get established in their first two years while others will suffer without an inch of water per week for their entire lives. Soils that are naturally wet all the time, like next to a pond, require the use of very specific species; you can always irrigate if you need to, but it's good to consider how practical that will be i.
In the name of not being wasteful, always consider your climate and try to plant appropriate species that do well with the natural rainfall patterns.
All of these factors can be modified to some degree by building mounds to improve drainage, adding compost and fertilizer, amending with substances that will change the pH, and other methods, but it's easier to work with what you have.
Contact your local cooperative extension service office for help in understanding your soil type. They will also be glad to provide a list of the best trees for your area. Choosing whether you want an evergreen or deciduous tree is a big step in the selection process. Matching a tree with the conditions of your property goes a long way toward minimizing maintenance. If you plant something that likes moisture and rich soil in a dry, rocky area it will need a lot of fertilizer and irrigation to perform well.
Likewise, a tree that grows too big for the space will require a lot of pruning to maintain the size. But if you really desire a certain tree that is not a perfect fit for the environment you have to offer it, it may well be worth the extra maintenance for the satisfaction of having that particular tree. Most trees require some maintenance - it's more a matter of choosing one that suits your lifestyle and the context of the planting location.
All trees drop leaves or needles, if they are conifers , but some drop seeds, fruits, nuts, and other things that could be seen as a nuisance. Even evergreen trees drop leaves, it's just not all at once like deciduous trees. However, plants with small leaves naturally require less raking than those with large leaves. Trees with messy fruits can stain the surfaces under them, so it best to avoid planting these species over patios, decks or parking areas. Nuts can be a hazard on hard surfaces as they roll under your feet like marbles.
Some trees are also known for dripping sap or emanating huge plumes of pollen. This point may be the most important to many gardeners. It's low on the list not because it doesn't matter, but because it easier to eliminate inappropriate species based on functional requirements and then consider looks. This is a matter of personal preferences and sensing what will fit best in the existing landscape or create the special look you want to achieve. There are many other unique situations that will further limit the species that make a good match.
Choose wisely to avoid potential hazards. Confused about how to apply all the different criteria? These sample scenarios may help clarify the process. When buying plants at a nursery, O'Sullivan has the following suggestions to ensure that you come away with a healthy and attractive specimen that will lead a long, happy life in your yard.
That being said, O'Sullivan cautions against haste, saying "Planning takes extra time up front, but saves you significant time and money in the long run. Garden Everything Trees How to Choose What Trees to Plant Planting a tree is a big investment in the future of your landscape, so it's important to make the choice wisely. Big Picture Planning Plan the garden based on the mature tree size.
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